Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Episode 15 – Esteban Irwin

Our last afternoon in Puerto Escondido is consumed with Dave racing our 125CC scooter on a motocross track we just stumbled upon. The light weight awkward machine is dwarfed by his height. The picture is comical, the determination is real!

Mazunte is our next stop, where I acquire my first holiday injury. A submerged Mexican rock decided to take a piece of my shin as a memento. I drown the pain in margaritas at a local beach bar and take the opportunity to utilise my very bad Spanish. It doesn’t last long as we retreat back to the Universal language of charades. Where ‘eat’ requires improvising cutting up of imaginary food etc. Brilliant, who needs to study language with such a fail safe tool at our fingertips!

The next morning, just after Dave is attacked by a goose on the beach, this hilarious sight is witnessed by numerous heckling travelers (well what is left of them); we discover the Mexican version of Steve Irwin. We call him Esteban Irwin. We are on a Turtle ‘Tortuga’ Expedition. Our first sighting is a small shark; this is followed by manta rays, a sea snake, a turtle then a lot of turtle ‘sexo’. It is quite slow and romantico. The voyeur in us is entertained; the prude in me just wants to give them some privacy!

Then we observe something remarkable, our Turtle Tracker jumps out of the boat and lands on the back of a giant Sea Turtle (luckily not one performing sexo). He quickly has control of the situation regardless of how ‘machismo’ this turtle thinks it is. Then we all get to jump in the water and flirt with the turtle. There are only 6 of us, so this is a very intimate affair 2km from the shore. A turterly magical experience (sorry, I couldn’t resist).

We cruise the coast line in the boat, stopping by Kaka Rock. Kaka translates to exactly what you think it might. This is where all the birds go to ‘unload’. It is decorative white and quite aesthetic, but the smell of old fish is not nearly as appealing as the visual effect – best viewed from upwind!

We get the exciting news that Dave has become an Uncle again. His new nephew is named Marlow. We celebrate with a Scrabble Death Match. I take my scrabble seriously, and Dave takes his first win.

We have been traveling under the watchful eye of Freda Kahlo. Her paintings staring at us everywhere we go like guardian angels. We feel safe and are optimistic about our bicyclieta ride to Zipolite. It nearly kills us in the 33 degree heat, but it is well worth the trip. Zipolite is beautiful, so beautiful we put our bikes on a rickshaw (we were not doing that ride again) head back to Arigalan, grab our bags and move back here for the last of our Mexican trip. Our resort is called Nudismo, and many visitors go ‘nudismo’, we even have our own John and Oko lookalikes – perfect!

The lifeguard at Zipolite, amongst facilitating the local’s habits, never attending his tower and being nowhere to be found except surfing drunk at midnight, was also in charge of hiring surfboards. After extensive searching, Dave finally got a board. He left our Villa with one big board, and arrived back with 2 less operative pieces 30 minutes later. Hmmm something definitely did not add up here…S

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